Why collagen creams aren't quite what they seem (2025)

We know we all want more collagen in our skin; it’s the naturally-occurring scaffolding that keeps it plump, firm and resilient. But do we actually understand how to achieve that? The term “collagen cream” can be bewildering, because while products containing collagen can have positive effects on our complexions, they don’t actually promote the synthesis of more collagen.

“The collagen molecule is too large to penetrate the skin deeply enough to have that effect,” confirms Chandni Vishrolia, prescribing team lead at the personalised skincare brand Skin + Me. “Collagen in skincare can still be beneficial as a humectant – it helps draw water into the top layers of the skin, which can make it feel more hydrated and look temporarily plumper – but if you're serious about supporting collagen production, you're better off using ingredients that actually work within the skin," she adds.

Meet the experts

• Chandni Vishrolia, prescribing team lead at the personalised skincare brand Skin + Me.
• Dr Beibei Du-Harpur, dermatologist and Simple skincare ambassador.

Our body already knows how to generate collagen – it’s naturally present in our skin, after all – but the production of it begins to slow as we age. Retinoids are the go-to ingredient when it comes to stimulating the production of more collagen, and for good reason.

Are collagen creams better than retinol?

In a word, no. “There are lots of bold claims out there when it comes to boosting collagen, but the reality is that only a handful of ingredients are scientifically proven to make a real difference, and they take time and consistency to work,” says Vishrolia. “Retinoids, like retinol or prescription-strength tretinoin, help stimulate the fibroblasts (the cells in the skin responsible for producing collagen), leading to an increase in collagen synthesis over time.”

Look for products that combine retinoids with soothing and replenishing ingredients to protect your skin barrier, which also plays an important role in maximising collagen production. “A healthy barrier is essential for your skin to repair itself and produce collagen efficiently,” adds Vishrolia.

Vitamin C is another winner, acting on collagen creation as well as “the production of other key structural proteins that improve skin firmness and integrity,” says Dr Beibei Du-Harpur. Consider it a double whammy of both increased collagen and stronger skin in one.

She also cites key peptides as being effective in this regard. When you’re mapping out your collagen-promoting skincare routine, there are a few other things to bear in mind, too – not least the role of skin’s forever best friend, sun protection. “Collagen is broken down by UV exposure, so limiting UV damage from the sun is an essential aspect to maintaining healthy collagen levels,” adds Dr Du-Harpur.

Lastly, bear in mind that collagen isn't built in a day. “Collagen stimulation, if it is going to occur with a topical skincare product, will take time. Any product that suggests an overnight transformation is misleading!”

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